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quick start tetra vs prime

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Post  chiclidlover Sun Jan 19, 2014 8:30 pm

I've used tetra at first but notice it would cloud up guick doing cycle it raised my nitrates up doing first tank cycle. I've also notice the clarity of the water I've ran the 55 gallon using prime an my water cycle had been better as of yet my water levels are above average far as nitrates, via my last test strip an check at Rama's . I stand behind prime products my fish are loving the water an so am I . I believe it should be the product of our club. It cancels all concerns for me weather my water is manageable can I miss a water change by two days with out the bloom an dead fish smell I can say yes I can. Really hope this article helps someone debating the extra two bucks believe me its worth it. Its the best product for the water table Richmond water sanitary department uses.
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Post  williemcd Sun Jan 19, 2014 10:15 pm

Cal.. somewhere on here is a post about each municipality and the efforts/chemicals they use in their water treatment... I'm with you 100% on Prime being my go-to product but one advantage you've forgotten to mention...A small cap-full of prime treats 5-10 (out of stock right now) versus a cap-full per gallon!  The Prime product goes 5-10 times further as far as dosage requirements being met.  
but.. to recap the previously mentioned article.. .It was suggested that you draw a gallon bucket of water and test it immediately.  Then with the same water sample, test it after allowing it to gas off for a period of 24 hrs.  Each municipality adds a treatment that ensures the longevity of the infrastructure of the delivery system (piping, valves and diverter) while being safe for human use.  Some of those treatments WILL gas off with a waiting period if given time.  I've read that the ph level alone had dropped a full degree upon the wait period.  Your test should be based upon the aged waters... Bill

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Post  chiclidlover Sun Jan 19, 2014 11:31 pm

Ok ill try that I have some setting in a cooler ill test it tomorrow an post my findings. Thanks bill well back to the game.lol
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Post  williemcd Sun Jan 19, 2014 11:33 pm

Cal.. your results will be interesting.. .Richmond City Water supply right?  Perhaps I'll draw a sample tonight to match our results from Chesterfield Co. water... But.. BACK to the GAME!   Very Happy

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Post  chiclidlover Mon Jan 20, 2014 12:34 am

Yeah less see I'm hoping for great results but I doubt it think imma buy a distiller for the fish room
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Post  Amp2020 Mon Jan 20, 2014 3:37 am

Don't buy a distiller for fish. They use either aluminum or copper pipes and will oxidize metals into the water and contaminate it. If you need pure water get a Reverse Osmosis filter. Only reason you would need a RO filter is if you have a reef tank or fish that require very low pH and soft water. For most fish you're actually better off using tap water. Just let it sit out over night in an open container before using the water. To allow it to stabilize its pH and gas off unwanted trapped gasses. Use a cap full of Prime for 25-30 gallons of tap water. In areas that only have chlorine in the water you can use a cap full for 50 gallons. But around here they add chloramine and you need to double the dosage. A little extra is better than not enough. You can safely add up to four times the normal dosage with out any harm to fish. Prime doesn't help speed up the cycling process but at least it detoxifies the harmfull chemicals so your fish don't die during the cycle. Just remember that no test kit on the market can reliably distinguish between detoxified ammonia and the harmfull ammonia chemicals. Some test kits are believed to work but there's very little evidence to support the theory.

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Post  williemcd Mon Jan 20, 2014 3:40 am

Great post Amp....I'd like to know a bit more about the detox Am... I know the treatments "bind" the am.. and chlor's.. but that's somewhat beyond my understanding... Bind vs. elimination.. Bill

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Post  williemcd Mon Jan 20, 2014 3:58 am

Chesterfield County sample:

I ran about 2 gallons of water through the tap before taking my sample of another 2 gal.  
My ph is 7.4 if not 7.6... call it 7.5
My ammonia is at 5-6 ppm.  
We'll see tomorrow nights results!  (same sample, just gassed out).. Bill

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Post  Doxiemom Mon Jan 20, 2014 11:19 am

THIS is why I can not wait to be back on well water!! WHOO!! Hate having county water!!
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Post  chiclidlover Mon Jan 20, 2014 12:58 pm

Tested my levels this morning an after sitting for twelve hours my ph is at 8 an ammonia at 6.5 say seven I'm afraid to test it from the tap it just might be nuclear level lol yes doxiemom I agree ill even go for the hand pump well water right know . This is probably why bottle water consumption has grown threw the years .
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Post  Amp2020 Mon Jan 20, 2014 1:42 pm

Straight from Seachem's Website.
Prime
Product Description
Prime® is the complete and concentrated conditioner for both fresh and salt water. Prime® removes chlorine, chloramine and ammonia. Prime® converts ammonia into a safe, non-toxic form that is readily removed by the tank’s biofilter. Prime® may be used during tank cycling to alleviate ammonia/nitrite toxicity. Prime® detoxifies nitrite and nitrate, allowing the biofilter to more efficiently remove them. It will also detoxify any heavy metals found in the tap water at typical concentration levels. Prime® also promotes the production and regeneration of the natural slime coat. Prime® is non-acidic and will not impact pH. Prime® will not overactivate skimmers. Use at start-up and whenever adding or replacing water.

Sizes: 50 mL, 100 mL, 250 mL, 500 mL, 2 L, 4 L, 20 L

Why It's Different
Nearly all companies manufacture a product that removes chlorine. None of those, however, can compare in quality, concentration, or effectiveness to Seachem’s flagship product: Prime®. Prime® is the second most concentrated dechlorinator on the market after our own aquavitro alpha™. A single 100 mL bottle will treat 1000 US gallons of tap water. Prime® will remove both chlorine and chloramines from municipal water supplies.

Prime® also contains a binder which renders ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate non-toxic. It is very important to understand how those two functions work together. All dechlorinators operate through a chemical process known as reduction. In this process, toxic dissolved chlorine gas (Cl2) is converted into non-toxic chloride ions (Cl-). The reduction process also breaks the bonds between chlorine and nitrogen atoms in the chloramine molecule (NH2Cl), freeing the chlorine atoms and replacing them with hydrogen (H) to create ammonia (NH3).

Typically, dechlorinators stop there, leaving an aquarium full of toxic ammonia! Seachem takes the necessary next step by including an ammonia binder to detoxify the ammonia produced in the reduction process.

Be very careful when purchasing water conditioners. If your municipality includes chloramines in the water supplies, a standard sodium thiosulfate dechlorinator is not enough. Prime® promotes the natural production and restoration of the slime coat rather than relying on artificial or non-native slime compounds. A further bonus for the reef hobbyist—Prime® will not overactivate protein skimmers.

Directions
Use 1 capful (5 mL) for each 200 L (50 gallons*) of new water. This removes approximately 1 mg/L ammonia, 4 mg/L chloramine, or 5 mg/L chlorine. For smaller doses, please note each cap thread is approx. 1 mL. May be added to aquarium directly, but better if added to new water first. If adding directly to aquarium, base dose on aquarium volume. Sulfur odor is normal. For exceptionally high chloramine concentrations, a double dose may be used safely. To detoxify nitrite in an emergency, up to 5 times normal dose may be used. If temperature is > 30 °C (86 °F) and chlorine or ammonia levels are low, use a half dose.




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Post  williemcd Mon Jan 20, 2014 4:33 pm

Amp.. i've read that in the past.. It states that the "bound" am is removed via the bio-filters?  I'd be interested in the phase of the "treatment"... Bill

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Post  williemcd Mon Jan 20, 2014 8:55 pm

About 18 hrs later?  I'm frankly shocked.. sampling the same water, after it sitting for 18 hrs.. ph is WAY above 7.6... ammonia is at zip!  WTH?  
My tanks are stocked with pfs and driftwood and running about 6.0-6.2  ... 
I didn't realize the importance of the driftwood!  Bill

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Post  neogeo20041 Mon Jan 20, 2014 9:48 pm

Dridtwood is how I breed my shrimp. Smile
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Post  williemcd Mon Jan 20, 2014 9:51 pm

Odd... I've had problems with super soft water and low ph with shrimp... Driftwood in my understanding contribs to both of those conditions... soft/low ph... And others have told me of the need for harder water for shrimps.... Any idea of your water hardness?  Bill

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Post  chiclidlover Mon Jan 20, 2014 10:17 pm

Just checked the water I stored an my Ph is 2 an my ammonia is at 3 so I estimate it will take about twen26 hrs for gas off to complete smh.. well I'm of to make the fish food from a recipe I swiped from the wizard( my uncle) hopefully it works out like the cubes he gave me...chow
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